Zoning offers the potential for even bigger savings.Why Would I Want A Line Voltage Smart Thermostat?.Looks like 25kBTU for Bay 5/6 and 38k for Bay 1-4 for these worst case numbers. I don't see temps <20F much and I keep it a closer to 63F inside. I can use the Hi/Low switches on the heaters to try to balance things out.Įdit: I used to get an idea of heat load using 5F outdoor and 65F indoor. I'm thinking my initial strategy will be to have one thermostat control all heaters. When temps drop to single digits, it isn't effective either. The Bay 1/2 unit seems to keep working in general. The mini-split in Bay 5/6 stops working well once it turns really cold (<32F). This is the third winter I've had the Cadet heaters and mini-splits. So, if it's warmer is Bay 1-3 because the heat pump is effective, I can exclude it from the thermostat's room temperature so this warmer area doesn't affect the thermostat calling for more heat in Bay 5-6. The Ecobee3's remote sensors can be selected/deselected for use in the base temperature calculation. The exception is when the sun is hitting the Bay 1 mini-split heat pump's outdoor unit. There's not a huge temperature difference through the shop in general. and then you dont have to mess with taping the blue wire.īays 1-4 are around 550sq ft each. Then to tie in the next relay you run C to C then W to W and you no longer hook up the R to R? IF your not using the R on the rest of them can you swap it out for a RC840? Looks like they are 10 bucks cheaper per. I have only used relays in the auto side so this is new to me. Then the red from the relay would be connected directly to the L2 on the heater?ĭo you only have to break one leg of the 240 to turn the whole thing off? Wonder if the fan will stay running with one side still hot. White wire from the breaker would be connected to the black on the relay and end there. Assuming putting the relay in the heater.īlack wire would go from the breaker to the L1 heater, The blue from the relay would also go to the L1 on the heater (thus it has 2 wires going to it), or in a wire nut have 3 lines, short jumper wire the L1, blue to the relay, and black from the breaker. Wiring from the breaker to the heater currently is L1 Black, L2 white (taped to show hot) and ground. (EDIT found a color diagram and made a couple changes to the way I thought it would be wired) I have not used a 240v relay before so sorry if this is basic. I will have two thermostats with two remote temperature sensors each. It will interface with my existing electric heaters via Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer. So, I've decided to convert to a modern, smart thermostat. AND, I'm certain the winter electric bills have a lot of room for improvement. The multiple laps around the shop every day are enough to make me want a thermostat. They do a good job of keeping things comfy in the spring and fall, but I'm on the resistive heat in the winter months. They are a couple years old now and work great to cool the shop. The heat pumps don't heat below about 40F. I also have (2) Pioneer 24,000 BTU mini-split heat pumps. We don't have natural gas here, so I'm stuck with electric heat/heat pumps. This means making a lap around the shop to turn the heat up on arrival to get the place habitable, another lap to turn down to maintain temperature and another lap prior to leaving for the day to lower the heat to a lower, minimal level. In general I only use 4-5 of these heaters.
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